by Bob Johansen, October 04, 2010

WITH MILES OF THE BEAUTIFUL, WILD, SCENIC SNAKE RIVER TO EXPLORE, ANGLERS CAN TEST THEIR SKILLS ON SMALLMOUTH BASS, STEELHEAD, WHITE STURGEON, RAINBOW TROUT, CHANNEL CATFISH AND MORE.

Imagine a place with plenty of warm sunshine, miles of beautiful, unspoiled scenery and a river with whitewater rapids and deep quiet pools filled with a variety of hungry fish species. Many northwest anglers might think they had died and gone to Heaven. Actually, you can visit a place like this while you are still alive and well -- a place with the unlikely name of Hells Canyon. This section of the beautiful Snake River is still much like it was when Lewis and Clark traveled up river for 100 miles in 1806 --or when Nez Perce Chief Joseph led his band safely across the flooding Snake on orders from the U.S. Army to move from the Wallowa Valley to the Lapwai Reservation in Idaho. The Nez Perce Crossing is marked on the river's shoreline and the jet boat skippers usually stop and explain the crossing.

Fortunately for anglers and nature lovers, the U.S. Congress established the Hells Canyon National Recreation Area in 1975. It is now managed by the U.S. Forest Service to protect the fragile ecology and the fascinating history of the area. For thousands of years, Native American Indians lived in the area and more than 150 archaeological sites have been discovered. Petroglyphs, carved into rocks, along the river, can still be seen today.

Last fall, son Donald and I had the opportunity to explore this beautiful, wild area for a few days. It was late September when we started our adventure from Clarkston, Washington. There we boarded Beamers Tours 42 foot jet boat, "Hells Canyon Rose." This big river runner is powered by 3 460 HP Ford engines and can seat up to 46 people.

The commercial jet boats are piloted by Coast Guard and Red Cross certified skippers. Their skill on the rivers white water rapids will amaze even the most experienced boater and their knowledge of the areas history and wildlife is very impressive. The sun tanned skippers also provide colorful narration, mixed with some dry humor on the trips up and down the river.

An example of the humor was when we passed the Salmon River joining the Snake River. "They call it the river of no return," our jet boat skipper, Buck, announced, "That's why we don't go up there." He then added, "We lose about half of the water here and the river becomes trickier to navigate -- And besides that, I've never been up there before."

Donald and I, with several other people, spent three days at Beamers Copper Creek Lodge, located about 70 miles up the river. From the lodge, we explored about 30 more miles up river to Rush Creek, including the Kirkwood Historical Ranch. The rest of the time was spent on smaller jet boats, with fishing guides, testing the waters for the many fish species that call the Snake River home.

During our visit, in late September, the most productive fishery was for smallmouth bass. The water was low and clear. Most of the bass, we caught, were under a pound but much larger bass are available for the skilled and/or lucky anglers. Lenny Frasier, a skilled angler who has spent many days exploring the Snake River, has caught a few smallmouth in the 5 pound class. Some anglers report catches of 50 to 70 fish per day.

These fish are eager biters and will hit a wide variety of lures. Plastic grubs and small worms in black, purple, clear metal flake and avocado work well. Other colors will probably entice strikes as well. Crankbaits in crawdad patterns or silver with blue or black back are also good lure choices. Small spinner baits in white, black and chartreuse produce strikes -- and so will in-line spinners like Rooster Tails and Mepps. White seemed to be the best color for the Rooster tail spinners.

These smallmouth are very strong from living on the edge of fast water. I have learned, over the years that even lake dwelling smallies are great fighters but these Snake River fish will really test your tackle. Use a quality line of at least 6 pound test and don't hesitate to use 8 pound.

Rainbow trout are also a popular game fish in Hells Canyon. The Snake River is planted with these hearty fish every year. They thrive, and grow large and strong in these fast clear waters. Rainbows respond to both bait and lures. Like the smallmouth, they will hit small spinners like the Mepps, Roostertails and Panther Martins. Fly fishing is also popular among the river anglers.

Steelhead are quite plentiful and provide an exciting fishery on the Snake River. When we fished in late September, the fish were not yet plentiful in the upper river. They were, however, quite plentiful and aggressive in the river just below the Grande Ronde and on down to Clarkston. One of the most popular methods is back trolling plugs. The guides liked to use Storm Lures Wiggle Warts, Luhr Jensen Hot Shots and Yakima Baits Hawg Boss Super Toads. Colors ranged from blue, green, red and mixed colors and patterns. Use the bright colors, like florescence, on sunny days and darker colors like blue or black on dark days.

Bank anglers can draw strikes by tossing spinners or using bait. Shrimp and Lil' Corky, used with about a two foot leader and a slinky, is a good bait choice. Night crawlers also will tempt the steelies. As with most steelhead fishing in the northwest, only hatchery fish may be kept. Fish without a clipped adipose fin must be released.

During the winter, November through February, steelhead anglers can join the year around U.S. mail run up the rugged canyon and try their hand at some of the best steelheading around. On this trip anglers can explore the canyon to the end of navigation while delivering the mail as it's been done since 1919. They can spend the night deep in the heart of the canyon at Beamers Copper Creek Lodge in a private, modern cabin and enjoy hearty all-you can eat meals. The boat departs Clarkston every Wednesday for the two day, one night trip.

Sturgeon in Hells Canyon range up to almost 10 feet long. When we fished in late September, Beamers had two fishing boats at the Copper Creek Lodge. Each boat will take up to five anglers. The other boat, the one that Donald and I weren't fishing on, caught a seven foot sturgeon. The fish was shot dozens of times, with cameras, before being released. The method used to catch these huge fish is anchor and cast a big hunk of cut bait into the deep pools. Pieces of sucker fish or squawfish are generally used. Strong backed 11 foot rods, with reels spooled with 80 to 100 pound line are used for this popular fishery. Sturgeon fishing on the Snake River is catch and release only.

Channel catfish are also quite plentiful in Hells Canyon. They are probably not the most popular game fish in Hells Canyon, but several are caught by anglers fishing for sturgeon. We caught one on sturgeon gear. It fought well, but was far overmatched by the heavy rod and reel. When caught however, they are seldom released. They rate good as table fare. Crappie are sometimes also caught high up in the canyon. Terry Rudnick, a well known and talented northwest angler and outdoor writer, caught one while we were there fishing for smallmouth bass.

Last May, my wife and I explored the canyon again. Spring in the canyon is quite different from fall. The river in May was very high, with a muddy color and from the Salmon River downstream there was a lot of logs and other wood debris floating down the river. The jet boat skipper, Tim, zigged and zagged back and forth across the river to miss the floating driftwood. Like our fall skipper, Buck, he was very skillful and competent and provided a safe and enjoyable ride.

During the spring the surrounding hills and peaks are a beautiful, fresh green -- And, while the river is high and somewhat muddy, we were able to catch several nice sized smallmouth bass. During the fall the hills are a golden hue decorated with many colorful wild flowers. The river is low and clear, providing better fishing for more species and more thrills we climb up over the white water rapids in the powerful jet boats.

Hotels, motels and campgrounds are available in or near Clarkston. For more information call the Clarkston Chamber of Commerce at (800) 933-2128 --or write them at 1451 Bridge Street, Clarkston, Washington. To fish up the canyon you will need either an Oregon or Idaho fishing license. They can be obtained at Tom Smith's Shop at 902 Sixth Street, Clarkston, Washington .

Both my spring and fall tours have been with Beamers Hells Canyon Tours and Excursions. They can be reached for reservations or more information at (800) 522-6966. They can provide day trips, over-night trips, mail run trips, float trips and other options. Other Hells Canyon tour operators can be reached through the Clarkston Tourist Bureau.

The weather was warm and sunny during both my spring and fall trips. Light clothing is usually adequate but the nights and early mornings are cool. Bring a jacket and be prepared to "layer down." Wildlife is plentiful and the scenery is beautiful so bring a camera and plenty of film.