Tackle Notes: Right-Hand or Left-Hand Reel?

[Don Wittenberger]

There are three schools of thought on the subject. (This discussion assumes a right-handed angler.)

1) Using a right-hand reel, cast with right hand, and switch rod to left hand, then reel in lure.

2) Using a right-hand reel, cast with left hand and turn reel handle with right hand. This method does not require switching the rod to the other hand.

3) Using a left-hand reel, cast with right hand and turn reel handle with left hand. This method does not rqeuire switching the rod to the other hand.

My advice goes something like this: There is no "right" or "wrong" way to do it, and I recommend using whichever method you're comfortable with. For many people, that probably will be Method #1. However, if you want to maximize your effectiveness and are willing to learn something new, using one of the other methods that eliminates switching the rod from one hand to the other has tactical advantages.

Obviously, you have better control of the lure if your cranking hand stays on the reel handle during the entire cast. This translates into better accuracy plus you can react if a fish hits the lure when it splashes down. This is more likely to happen when casting to shoreline cover. It's awkward, to say the least, to try setting the hook while in the process of switching the rod from one hand to the other.

Another circumstance where you want your cranking hand on the reel handle at the moment of splashdown is when casting bucktails. A musky won't hit a bucktail if the blade isn't revolving. Even if a bucktail works perfectly when new, after it gets beat up from use the blade may need an assist from you. When casting bucktails, I always give the rod tip a "pop" at splashdown to get the blade turning. More than once in my fishing experiences, that "pop" also set the hook into a fish.

In my own fishing, I normally use Method #3, partly because I learned to fish for bass with left-hand reels. (I got that idea from an article in a long-forgotten bass fishing magazine many years ago.) So, I was already used to it. But for me, a naturally right-handed angler, it's also the most efficient and tactically effective method.

I do keep a spare rod rigged with a right-hand reel for several reasons. One, in case I have a guest in my boat who is a right-hander who prefers Method #1 or #2, or a southpaw who likes Method #3. And two, because I've had rotator cuff injuries in both my shoulders, and sometimes neither of my shoulders can take a full day of casting. On those days, I'll alternate between casting right-handed and left-handed. This keeps my past injuries from taking me off the water. (I'm not truly ambidextrous, but through practice I've acquired a serviceable left-handed casting ability.)

In all cases, the more versatility of technique you acquire, the more options you have on the water and this usually translates into more efficient and effective fishing. So, if you're having a slow day and are bored to tears, it doesn't have to be a wasted day simply because the fish aren't showing themselves. If you had the foresight to buy one reel opposite of what you normally use and stash it in your gear, this would be a good time to pull it out and teach yourself some new tricks. Your wrist, elbow, and shoulder will thank you.

[Bill G]

Don the guys that started fishing 20 or so years ago didn't have left handed reels to use. It's only been sense then that the manufactures finally came around and started manufacturing most of there models in both hands. A lot of my buddies only had the TV to learn from in the begining and of corse even today most bass fishermen still switch hands.
Shimano was one of the first companies to bring out an afordible reel in the left hand design and I bought it. It was hard at first but now 90% of my reels are left handed. Rosann is of the old school and not willing to change, she has layed clame to all the right handed bait casting reels we own.
Don't buy a Shimano reel because I own some of them. I'm mad at the company for making a substandard reel, then not standing behind it. But thats another story.
The hardest thing to deside on a reel today is round style or low profile. Other wise how much do you want to spend. Don't let any salesman tell you that they have a reel that you can't back lash, or if they do, ask them if you do have a backlash, is the reel free, that will take them back a few steps.
You know we are leaving out the spincast people that don't like bait cast. They will bring in a tiger just as well as any other reel. In fact I caught a 38" tiger on an ultra light spin cast set up with 4 lbs line,with a 1/8 oz roadrunner bait.
I'm thinking about trying a cane pole one of these days to be able to say I have done it.
How did I do Don?
We almost have enough water, I'll let you know when It's time to fish.
Bill

[Don Wittenberger]

Bill, I've always had to fish on a tight budget, so I do things on the cheap. For many years, I had more rods than reels, and when I wanted to fish for muskies I'd take reels off my bass rods and respool them with musky line. In recent years, I've gradually acquired enough reels so each bass or musky rod can have its own reel.

One good strategy for accomplishing this is to take advantage of the fact most people struggle with buying Christmas and birthday gifts for their relatives. You can help solve their problem, and yours, by spreading the word in family circles that you need reels! Fishing reels are way more useful than waffle makers or popcorn poppers!

Most of my musky rods now have Classic Series Garcias on them. Nowadays, they cost around 70 or 80 bucks, which to me seems like a lot of money for a fishing reel. I don't go within a country mile of those high-end reels costing upwards of $200! The principle that most fishing tackle is designed to catch fishermen, not fish, applies here.

I own a musky spinning rod but don't use it much. I'm biased against spinning rigs because you can't get any casting accuracy with them. If I were coaching a newbie, I'd tell him it's easier to learn how to use a baitcasting setup than to fish with spinning gear. I'd also be concerned about how much an inexperienced angler can maintain directional control over lure trajectory from the rod tip. This is fancy talk for saying I don't want to get hooked in the ear by my boat partner. Put a spinning rod in the hands of a novice and the lure could go literally anywhere! So, I'd rather give the new person my best baitcasting rod and reel, politely ask him/her to please try to not drop it overboard, and spend the time necessary to teach them how to use it -- even if it takes all summer.

But, like I say, I keep a spinning setup in my boat because these things are judgment calls, and you may get in a situation where breaking out the spinning rod is the best solution ...

If you ever meet my pal Tony Welch, no doubt he will regale you with a story about how I dissassembled and reassembled a Garcia in the bathroom of the motel in Cougar, because the free spool didn't work. Took half the night to put it back together, but it did work when I got done ... I have witnesses, no matter what Tony says ...

[Nik]

I was "blessed" with being the only left-handed child out of 4 in my family, so i grew up using right handed reels, and now it's totally natural (cast with left, reel with right). It sure is nice being able to look through a catalog and know that any reel I see I can use; it's certainly a nice break from shopping for a baseball mitt or golf clubs anyway.

I've always been confused by this though, as the majority of reel are set up to fish "my way", yet several of my right handed friends have to switch their spinning reels around and can't use my poles.

[Don Wittenberger]

Well, for what it's worth, a few years ago when I was staying at Indian Trail on the Chippewa Flowage, I hired noted musky guide and author John Detloff for a day of guided fishing and he was aghast at my using a left-handed reel. John is an old-school rod-switcher and I guess to his way of thinking there's just no other way to do it. So, another reason I bought a right-handed reel is that if I ever go fishing with John again I won't have to listen to him going ballistic over these new-fangled methods. Sometimes it's just easier to go with the flow.

[Deadeyemark]

I learned to throw a baitcaster that was direct drive. Remember those Don? Handles spinning same as the spool?
Anyhow, I cast R handed but switch during flight and thumb left handed so I'm ready for that quick strike. Been doing it that way so long I can't remember. I did switch to a couple of L handed baitcasters on my pitchin and flippin sticks cuz I was missing a fish or two when they'd hit my jig while I was switching hands. Can't switch in flight pitchin. Not enough time. Now I pitch/flip R handed and reel L. Still throw my spinnerbaits and crankbaits R hand and switch but-----What a mess.

[Riverman]

Funny how we are all trying to accomplish the same thing but have different ways of getting there! I use a reel with the handle on the left and cast on the right.

I'm surprised at your answer Deadeye, I kind of pictured you as the type that turns your rod upside down and reels backwards, lol

Jed V. :bounce:

[Don Wittenberger]

"Remember those Don? Handles spinning same as the spool?"

Sure I remember those. Grew up with 'em. In fact, I've got one like that right now -- it's not supposed to be, but it is. I took it to Angler's Choice in Lynnwood last week to be sent out for repair.

[Deadeyemark]

Hey Riverman, Doesn't the reel go up even if it's a spinning reel?

[glastron876]

When it comes to Spin vs. Baitcast reels. I cast Right, retrieve Right.

HOWEVER - I do wish that the reel manufacturers would be more inclined to put more Left handed reels into the the stores like they do with Spincast reels - where Left handed retrieves seem to be the standard (of course the retrieve can be switched if you want). They are far and few between unless you go online and order special.

Because of the abundance of Right handed reels in the stores, and inability to switch handles to side of desire, I have learned to cast right, retrieve right with the baitcast reel.

[Kenster]

So, I'd rather give the new person my best baitcasting rod and reel, politely ask him/her to please try to not drop it overboard, and spend the time necessary to teach them how to use it -- even if it takes all summer.

Hey Don, been using spinning reel all my life (thought I was accurate). I have taught my kids to cast sinning reels, and I bought a baitcating reel year before last. Not asking for an all summer lesson but would greatly appreciate a lesson on minimizing backlashing (aka set-up) and timing for accuracy. I can't seem to cast where I want no matter what I do. It's a Flueger "President" on a Lamiglass "Competitor" 6'6". If it helps, I'm a Lake Tapps regular and have my own boat for lessons.

[Nik]

Hey Don, been using spinning reel all my life (thought I was accurate). I have taught my kids to cast sinning reels, and I bought a baitcating reel year before last. Not asking for an all summer lesson but would greatly appreciate a lesson on minimizing backlashing (aka set-up) and timing for accuracy. I can't seem to cast where I want no matter what I do. It's a Flueger "President" on a Lamiglass "Competitor" 6'6". If it helps, I'm a Lake Tapps regular and have my own boat for lessons.

This is just my opinion, but your first and only mistake was buying a Pflueger reel. Their centrifugal braking system, for lack of a better term, sucks. Reels that employ a magnetic braking system will cast MUCH better with WAY less backlash. Those pins are plain stupid; you have to take the cover off the reel to adjust them, they look and feel cheap, they're tiny and easy to lose, and they make little to no difference anyways. Maybe I used them wrong, but I have a BPS Extreme baitcaster that costs half as much as the president and employs a hybrid braking system, and I can cast without even putting my thumb on the spool and not backlash if I turn the brake up all the way. I would say any reel that has an externally adjustable magnetic braking system is going to be light years easier to use than that Pflueger.

[Deadeyemark]

Hey Kenster,
I"m not trying to take Don's spot here but I'll give ya my 2 cts worth and maybe it'll get ya started.
The spool tension nut on the handle side of the reel and on the side plate just under the reel handle is usually tightened just enough for the side-side play of the spool to go away. You can adjust it slightly tighter which will put a little more drag on the spool when casting and backlash less. Experiment. Start off with it slightly tight and back it off till you're confident.
Don't lob cast. Snap it. Bring it back and bring it forward quickly. When the lure hits, thumb the spool. Pretend the lake is 10' in elevation above where you're standing. Kinda like trying to cast over the basket ball backstop if you'fe standing right in front of it. This will get you to release your thumb from the spool earlier with the rod higher than you've probably been doing. Accuracy and distance will come. Accuracy is alot more important than distance.
I usually over cast slightly so I can stop my lure right on target by thumbing it down.
I do like the magnetic anti-backlash systems better but it doesn't really matter much, the basics are the same either way. I learned on a direct drive baitcaster. No anti-backlash system whatsoever. Handles turned while the spool was turning. Reels sure have come a long way.

[Don Wittenberger]

Kenster, you've raise two separate issues, accuracy and backlashes.

I'll discuss accuracy first. If you square your shoulders to the target and cast over your shoulder in a vertical (90-degree) plane, the lure should go straight. How far it goes depends on how hard you throw and where the release point is. You'll have better control over distance if you throw line drives instead of high looping casts. Think home run instead of fly ball. You get a fly ball by taking your thumb off the spool too soon.

Backlashes are caused by the spool revolving faster than the lure pulls out line, which creates slack line at the reel which doubles back on itself. You should lightly thumb the spool during the cast, and adjust the spool tension nut as Mark suggested. This nut is directly over the spool axle, dead-center in the side plate, under the reel handle. Clockwise tightens; counterclockwise loosens. It doesn't take much -- about 1/10th turn at a time.

A common cause of backlashes when using muskie gear is trying to cast a lure that's too light for the rod and line. The solution is to use a heavier lure, or use a longer and more limber rod, and lighter line.

[Kenster]

Hey Nik, thanks for the input. Glad I only made one mistake. Youre obviously not a Pflueger fan.


Don and Deadeye (your info is worth more than the 2cts your crediting)- I will give your tips a try and I appreciate your time. I think I snap to hard and release to late, lure always goes far to the left and I need to turn my body 90 deg. to where I want to cast. I always cast from the side and if I try to cast "overhand" thats when it always severly backlashes. I'll practice in the front yard on this because when I am on the water I find my self impatient and jumping right to my spinning reels (they're not pfluegers, Nik-LOL).

[Nik]

Actually it's kind of ironic because I really like Pflueger spinning reels and have one myself. That's the reason I tried a Pflueger baitcaster. Worthless. For what it's worth I also have a friend who's been using baitcasters for years, he bought a Pflueger baitcaster and after about 15 casts and 13 backlashes he put it down and returned it the next day. He had the exact same line on his Daiwa and it casted perfectly everytime.

[Don Wittenberger]

Kenster -- It's hard to change old habits, but if you can teach yourself overhand casting, your casting will not only be more accurate but also safer. Sidearming muskie lures is dangerous to other people in the boat.

It's not easy to describe my casting technique in written words. I use long-handled muskie rods and cast with both hands. If casting right-handed, I prefer a left-handed reel, and I cast over my right shoulder. My right hand grips the rod handle at the reel, with my thumb on the spool, and my left hand grips the rod handle at the butt. I raise the rod over my shoulder, with both arms pivoting at the shoulders, until the rod is extended behind me and the lure is hanging behind my back. I bring the rod and lure to a complete stop before beginning the forward cast. The motion of the forward cast is like swinging an axe, with the arms again pivoting at the shoulders, and I'm really not using much (if any) wrist snap. With this technique, the right hand is a pivot point, and the left hand at the bottom of the rod handle actually does the casting by pulling on the rod like a lever.

I release my thumb from the spool when the forward motion of the rod stops. At that point, the rod is extended straighjt in front of me, at about a 45-degree angle to the water. I usually let the spool run free for about the first half of the lure's flight, then lightly thumb it during the last half of its flight so the spool doesn't overrun and backlash.

It's all done by "feel" and you can tell if it feels right. If you get a high looping cast, you're releasing your thumb too soon. If you backlash, you're not thumbing the spool enough during the lure's flight. If the lure drops short of the target, you thumbed it too much. It's definitely easier to pick up this technique if you're using a rod, line, and lure that are well matched to each other.

There are, of course, other ways of casting.