FS: bass plastics

[bpm2000]

SOLD!

[fishnislife]

Why ya dumping all the goods?



fishnislife

[bpm2000]

I still have quite a bit of plastics left - I am consolidating my gear/baits so I can concentrate on more singular things at this time (like swimbaits!) and not spread myself so thin.

[bpm2000]

if you are interested in the WHOLE lot let me know and I will count out and tell you what exactly is in there (and maybe throw in some extras...).

[fishnislife]

I would take those off your hands for ya, but I have the same problem. Tons of plastics. Good idea on trimming down. Someone will be a lucky guy to get all that for the price. Great baits your selling too.



fishnislife

[the1fishingpro]

Dude If I knew how to use softplastics as good as some of you guys, I would buy these plastics. Seems like a great offer, and a nice assortment of colors as well. Someday when I know more about softplastics I might take a couple deals you guys dish up.

[bpm2000]

the1fishingpro, you have to have 'em to learn 'em!

[the1fishingpro]

True, but for right now...Jigs are my main priority. Im still having trouble finding the bass and getting hook sets. I have tried Flukes/lizards/and grubs with minor success, but I will get back to them eventually. Its easier for me to stick with 1 style at a time, and since Jigs are one of the worlds best go-to bass lures I think I would like to learn a thing or two before switching over.

I still dont understand the Senkos, I have worked with them and I cant seem to get them to do anything. How can bass tell the difference between a green Senko and a stick with Algae? I know it doesnt matter what I think and what the bass think, but I just dont understand it.

Maybe you can teach me a thing or two about some of these soft plastics. I'll admit though....Im really interested in your selection you have there

[kzoo]

True, but for right now...Jigs are my main priority. Im still having trouble finding the bass and getting hook sets. I have tried Flukes/lizards/and grubs with minor success, but I will get back to them eventually. Its easier for me to stick with 1 style at a time, and since Jigs are one of the worlds best go-to bass lures I think I would like to learn a thing or two before switching over.

I still dont understand the Senkos, I have worked with them and I cant seem to get them to do anything. How can bass tell the difference between a green Senko and a stick with Algae? I know it doesnt matter what I think and what the bass think, but I just dont understand it.

Maybe you can teach me a thing or two about some of these soft plastics. I'll admit though....Im really interested in your selection you have there

Senkos will produce more fish than a jig. Jigs will produce the bigger bites, but less bites than a senko. Senkos produce an action on the fall, sort of a wiggle. Use them in shallow waters near vegetation, just cast and let it fall to the bottom, must have a little slack in it and just watch your line on the fall.

[HillbillyGeek]

Senkos have two key features: 1) The plastic is impregnated with salt and scent, so the bass are more likely to hit it and hold on. I've heard that Gary Yamamoto and his brother patented a manufacturing process that enables them to get twice as much salt into the baits compared to other brands. While this tends to make the baits less durable, it increases the weight and makes them taste yummy to bass. 2) Because the baits are heavy, they can be fished weightless (no sinker). When bass are finicky, a slow presentation is the way to go. They can be rigged weedless "Texas style", or they can be "wacky" rigged (hook in the middle).
A senko is not a finesse worm because it doesn't have much action of it's own. That's why they call them "stick baits". Most stick baits are tail-heavy, so they actually sink backwards on a slack line. This behavior also triggers strikes. Twitch them forward a couple of times, then let them slide back. Bass usually pick them up on the fall, so don't give them too much slack or you won't feel the bite.

[bpm2000]

also if u dont have the senko rigged correctly it wont fall right. if you did it right it will have a very subtle wiggle on both ends of the "stick" (even better when wacky rigged) and should fall horizontally. This isnt the only way to rig it but the most popular, weightless way of producing action.

[the1fishingpro]

Thx guys, maybe I will take Senkos into a greater consideration.
Couple Questions....
1. Does the Senko need to be on flat ground or can it lay apon the vegetation?
2. I fish off shore for right now, should I throw deep or stay shallow?
3. Do I respond to the Senko as If I do with a Jig, In such hook sets and patience?
4. What color and hook sizes work best for them?
5. Best to use Monofiliment or Braid?

[kzoo]

Wow! couple questions?

Okay,
1. Senkos don't sit on the bottom of the lake, once it hits bottom you either pull it up and have the senko fall again or reel it in and cast it out. The bass is going to hit a senko on the fall, not sitting on the bottom of lake (unless it's a bed).
2. You can cast it either shallow or deep, I prefer shallow, deep can take a while.
3. You really need to watch your line, if it starts moving the around or if stops all the sudden reel up the slack and set the hook.
4. I use 3/0 most of the times.
5. I prefer mono and fluro with senkos.

[bpm2000]

they definitely hit on the fall a lot but you can deadstick a senko and have bass pick it up off the ground. Its hard to do but deadsticking can be productive at times. and hook size is going to be dependent on the senko length.

[HillbillyGeek]

Thx guys, maybe I will take Senkos into a greater consideration.
Couple Questions....
1. Does the Senko need to be on flat ground or can it lay apon the vegetation?
2. I fish off shore for right now, should I throw deep or stay shallow?
3. Do I respond to the Senko as If I do with a Jig, In such hook sets and patience?
4. What color and hook sizes work best for them?
5. Best to use Monofiliment or Braid?

Here are my opinions:
1. Bass are attracted to movement, but when they are inactive, too much movement will turn them off. I've been watching "Hook-n-look", which shows bass behavior first hand. A lot of bass will swim over to inspect a lure, and then just stare at it for a while. Eventually they bite when the lure moves again, but they will stare at it sitting on the bottom while they make the decision whether or not it's edible. Then one more twitch & BAM -- feesh on! This is the scenario where scent becomes very important. Conversely, when fish are actively feeding they hit out of reflex -- even when they are not hungry. Sometimes they hit a lure just because it pissed them off, and sometimes they just don't want the competition to get an easy meal. (Kind of like sibling rivalry.) I've caught many smallmouth that were litterally spewing minnows out of their mouths as I got them to the boat. Clearly they were not hungry, so their response to my lure was pure instinct. In those types of fishing situations, scent is not very important because the fish don't pause long enough to smell anything.
2. Senkos sink slowly when there's no added weight. I agree with kzoo, and prefer to fish them in shallow water. However, you can add weight for deeper situations. If you do, it would be good to just add a split shot and leave about a foot of leader between the sinker and your senko. This will allow the senkos slow movement to still be a factor. Twitch, twitch, wait... (repeat as necessary). You could also use a 3-way rig with a heavy dropper. This would be good for deep vegetation because you can keep your lure right on top of the stuff while the dropper weight drags through it.
3. One of the biggest advantages of using soft plastics is that fish will hold onto it after they hit it -- especially if it tastes salty and smells good. All Yamamoto baits smell and taste good, which is why they are so effective, and why fishermen will pay more $$ for them compared to other baits. They just work. When you feel a bite, slowly reel in the slack until you can feel the fish, then set the hook. This strategy prevents false hook sets when perch & sunfish are pecking your lure. Don't wait too long, however, or the bass will swallow the bait. This almost always means certain death for the fish, and if they are "in the slot", you can't even keep the injured fish. It's a total waste.
4. The best colors are watermelon w/black & red flake, pumpkin w/black flake, & cinnamon w/black flake. I'm sure other colors also work fine, but these have worked well for me. If you're fishing in low light, black always the best color. (Fish don't see color very well in low light, and black provides the best Silhouette.)
5. As with most things, the answer is "it depends". Both types of line have advantages and disadvantages, but they can compliment each other when used together. I have found that the combination of braid + a small swivel + a fluorocarbon leader is very effective. I can cast a mile even with very little weight because braid is so thin. Both types of line are extremely resistant to abrasion -- which is a very big deal in heavy cover or under docks. Braid is NOT invisible underwater, so a fluorocarbon leader helps big-time. You could use mono instead of fluorocarbon, but mono is not as tough, it floats, it stretches, and it loses strength the more saturated it becomes. The biggest advantages of using mono are 1) it is much cheaper than braid and fluorocarbon, and 2) the stretch acts as a shock absorber which helps prevent breakage. I like to use 8 lb mono for bass fishing in light cover because it is plenty strong, and I can replace it often because it's cheap. (I buy the BIG spools, which saves a lot of $$ in the long-run.)
Hope that helps! :thumright

[the1fishingpro]

Ya that answers my questions completely thanks guys