River Salmon fishing: How do I ???

[OKfisherman]

All:

I 've been in the NW for about eight years now and, as luck would have it, I have only fished for salmon about a half-dozen times. I have some questions for the experts; please feel free to impart your wisdom as you see fit...

1. Corkies and yarn: Hook, yarn, and corkie? That's it? I understand that the fish hit the lure out of anger, not hunger, but that's all there is to it (besides a sinker, of course)?

2. Leader length: How much leader is too much (or not enough)? I've seen anglers on the river with a 10 foot leader, and some with a 3 foot leader; is it personal preference, or do they calculate the running depth of the salmon?

3. HOW DO I KNOW WHEN THERE'S A HIT? Is there a subtle sign I'm missing? I can feel the lead weight hitting the bottom while drift fishing, but that's it. Is one of the bumps a fish? What's the "one thing" that I'm missing?

Gentlemen (and ladies, of course), I need some guidance. I've never been the type to ask for "directions" but, in this case, I feel compelled to ask those who are in the know. I feel like I'm missing something. Thank you in advance...

[Anglinarcher]

I see that a lot of people have looked at your question, but no one has tried to answer it. I'm not surprised, it is not easy to answer.

I'll try, but to be honest with you, I tell people the best way is to hook up with an experienced, and successful fishermen, then learn from them. It is almost impossible to teach someone the little things on paper. If it were easy, there would not be so many books written on the subject.

The next two things I suggest are to read a book or two on the subject. It is not the best way, but it is useful. Then, spend the money and go with a guide once. You will learn only his way, for that day, but a guide can teach you in a day what often takes years of learning on your own to obtain.

Finally, hit the water a lot, every chance you get. You will probably catch your first fish by accident, but as time goes on the accidents get more and more frequent until you figure out what you are doing to provoke the strike.

Now, my suggestions only. Yes, Yarn and Corkie are a common method to use. There is a special Knot that you tie on the hook so that the yarn can be added or changed at will. The hook gap should be 1/2 size larger then the corkie or you will have troubles hooking up. In waters that all allow scent or bait, adding shrimp, tuna balls, etc., can help.

I know that Salmon do not, cannot, feed once they enter fresh water. Still, some of the takes seam to be reflex related to the feeding they once did, some of it is to clean up free floating eggs that could spread disease to the system, some of it is indeed anger, and I'm sure that there are numerous other reasons that we don't yet think of.

Leader length can vary from day to day, water clarity to water clarity, temperature to temperature. I prefer shorter leaders in colder water, dirty water, etc. I prefer longer leaders in ultra clear water, warm water, etc. Now the definition of short and long varies from water to water IMHO.

Many Salmon are caught in the Rivers using a heavy weight, bait, and anchoring the bait and waiting for the take, just like you would for trout. Many Salmon are caught with lures, some scented and some not scented. Extra large kwickfish and flatfish, with hearing wraps, are a common method.

So, as you can see, there is no one way, therefore no on answer. When you are fishing with yarn and corkies, I suggest using drop weights like slinkies or lead wire on rubber sleeves. That way you are less likely to snag. If you use slinkies, the bump of the bottom is much less, and it is easier, at least for me, to feel the subtle take of the Salmon. Seldom to Salmon hit a yarn and corkie hard for me. My advice, strike and anything that does not seem right, less pressure, slack line, extra tight line, more pressure, line moving right or left, etc., etc. Strikes are free, so use them often until you get the hang of it.

Oh ya, and the obvious, you can't catch fish where there are no fish. Fish in areas you know others are catching them until you gain your knowledge and confidence.

[jens]

I see that you are from Yelm. Personally, I would try and go slow and then branch off. Learn the Nisqually. It's easy to figure out. You will find most people fishing are using corky/yarn and some that will be using eggs/bait. Spend a few hours watching everyone fish, especially those that are consistently catching or hooking up. Bring a notepad and start a journal. Write down what you see. I am not sure how much of a personable person you are, but most guys once you get them talking, LOVE to talk. Ask simple questions and then shut up, they will talk.

I would also go back and read every topic in the River section that guys before have asked and responded.
To answer your question about a corky/yarn take, the best way I can describe that is to imagine your hook getting stuck on a rubberband.

I am not sure the gear you are currently using, but having a sensitive rod helps.

The best advice I can give: Put your time in. PUT YOUR TIME IN. Experiment. Watch. Listen. Take notes.

I have spent countless hours of being skunked on many, many, many, many, occasions. I always came home with something to build on for the next time.

[wintersteelhead]

Does'nt get any better than that. Guys, that's 3 (including the topic starter) of the best worded and polite/respectful posts I have ever seen. Kudos to the question, and a big round of applause to the two of you who answered, you guys have class!!!

[gpc]

This qustion gets asked every year around this time, and we all try to help, but its a tough one to answer.

But most importantly is just time on the river. 3 years ago I was in your shoes and I thought I would never get the hang of it. I still have a lot to learn, but I swear every hour I spend on the river, I learn something new.

Your best bet is to stick to one river and one method at first. Corkie and yarn is a great method, and will catch any species of salmon (and steelhead) in the rivers, where as other baits are more species specific. They are also one of the cheaper baits out there. But drift fishing is one of the tougher methods to get the hang of, and can be very frustating. Next year when the pinks are running is a great time to learn new methods.

Most of the time when I drift I use a heavier set up than most people. I have an 8'6" med. power rod and spooled with 300yds of 30# power pro. When drifting with this set up I use 1 oz cannon ball weights. When using this much weight it is a must to add a bead between the weight and the swivle, to protect your knot. Most of the time I use 10# flourocarbon leader, I always keep my 17# flouro in my vest just in case. I will not use any other hook than a gamakatsu while drifting. They are a little more pricy but worth every penny. There isnt really a right or wrong leader length, I have used from 12" - 12'. I would say I use 3'-5' more than anything. Just drifting a corkie also takes plenty of fish, and some guys just drift a peice of yarn. As far as scent I use the Mikes shrimp oil on corkies, and Pautskze(sp?) krill gel on anything else.

There is some great info allready going on this topic too. Sorry I couldnt be of more help, but if you have any more questions just throw them out there. Let us know how you do

[OKfisherman]

Gents:

Thanks for the replies; went to Nisqually this weekend. Although I didn't hook or land anything remotely resembling a salmon, I did talk with some of the guys on the river regarding techniques. They validated everything that was included in the recent posts. I did have another quick question; what is a "slinky"? I have been using the swivel type sinker with the lead weight suspended in a piece of surgical tubing. Am I correct in assuming that a slinky has a swivel at both ends of a lead sinker, or am I way off? Thank you for the continued advice; as GPC said, I am learning something new every time.

Also, I thought that I would give everyone a description of my rod/reel setup, just so I'm not assuming that I "brought enough gun" to the fight. I have an 8'3" ML power Fenwick rod with Daiwa baitcaster (ratio 5.3:1), spooled with 200 yd of 10lb. Stren monofilament. It used to be my catfish rod with I lived in Oklahoma, and it's the only rig I had that I thought was heavy enough. I use 10lb. Stren for leaders, and I have aped the corkie/yarn setup from those around me. I've seen some variations to the basic setup, but all are relatively similar to one another. Do I have enough rod for the job?

Again, thanks!

[BentRod]

OK, way to get out there! Hope it pays off sooner than later for you.
A slinky is a lead shot filled nylon cord. Here is a link to some pre-made.
Slinky sinkers
You can buy the materials to make them at most good tackle shops. However, your sticklead surgical tubing weights are another popular one that is a great alternative and cheap too. That is what I use.
Your rod/line setup sounds adequate, but is on the light side. You could definitely land fish with that if you take time to play them. Certainly good enough for most Silvers and Steelhead, but a King could snap 10lb pretty quick.
That being said, it's highly recommended that you use a lighter weight leader than your main line so that your leader snaps before your mainline does therefore preventing lots of lost line. As many people recommend 10# test as a minimum for salmon and steelhead, you might want to consider increasing your mainline test to 12-15 mono....or you could run 8# leader if you want to have some fun.

[Anonymous]

Slinky weights are used the same as what you described (swivel type sinker with the lead weight suspended in a piece of surgical tubing). They are just parachute cord filled with lead or steel shot and the ends melted to keep the shot in. And to backup what Bentrod said your setup it is not "ideal", but will work just fine for Coho (I've seen people using a lot lighter stuff on rivers), for kings though you'll want to bump up your line to at least 15# if not 20#, and you want to keep your leader a couple pounds lighter than your mainline.

[gpc]

I really like your set up, but I think its a little too light. My 1st casting set up was an 8'6' ML rod, Shimano Cardif 401, spooled with 12# test. The reel I still use, and is actually my first season I have used braid. Light gear is my favorite type of fishing, for any species. But in a combat fishing scenario, and with all the junk that is in all of ours rivers, it really isn't practical, at least year round. I have many rods I use for salmon, and I still bust out my 5' UL with 4# line, when I get really board with the chums/pinks. But battling a a 15# fish, with a heavy current, snags on every side of you along with 50 other people, definitely requires something a little heavier. So I moved up to an 8'6" med action rod spooled with 14# line and it really increased the amount of fish to hit the bank. Plus the seals are getting worse and worse. If you are fishing anywhere near the mouth of the river, you have to able to really get that fish in quick otherwise its seal food

An 8'-9' med action - med heavy action rod would work perfect. Spool the real you have with 15# line. Heavier line would be better but any heavier and it really decreases you casting distance with a casting combo. If you know how to fish braided line I would suggest using it. Its really not that difficult to figure out, but it is way different than mono. If you want to make the upgrade let me know and I will see what I can come up with.

[spokey9]

i agree with gpc, when your dealing with kings in a meat line a stiffer rod helps alot. i've had problems earlier this year with fellow anglers not wanting to bring up their line or casting over me when fightin a piggy. i usually use 20lb mainline an 15lb leaders for kings and drop to 12 & 10 for just bout everything else. i started fishing the river with a 8'3" fenwick legacy but now days i like a 10ft rod for drift fishing (makes it a lil more work on the fish, so they're a lil easier to get under control). jus my opinion though

[gpc]

Oops I almost forgot to mention that every time I fish for kings and most of the time while targeting chum salmon I switch to the big rod. I mostly use this for trolling the salt, or plunking. Its a 10'6" med heavy rod. I really like the power this rod provides, but waders are pretty much a must, its almost like fly fishing lol you need a lot of room for your back cast. But if I am just plunking I can make do with fighting the brush and flinging a spin n glo twice an hour. But to fish a 10'6" rod right you either need desert (no trees to get hung on) waders or just lots of patients, for getting your line untangled

[OKfisherman]

Thanks for the continued advice, gents!

I've unearthed an old Abu Garcia Ambassadeur 6000, with 20lb. Spiderwire braid, and was going to put it on my 8'6" Lamiglas. I haven't fished with braided line in YEARS (since it first came out, as a matter of fact), and I'm aware that there are differences in the way the line behaves while casting and retrieval, as well as when you have a fish on. Any insight? I would like to create a heavier setup with the equipment on hand, rather than dropping a couple of bills on a new rod and reel, and figured that a large arbor baitcaster with braid is just about as strong as anything...

Thanks again!

[spokey9]

you don't have to use braid, that 6000 will hold plenty of 15 or 20lb mono for kings. i like izorline personally cause it's about $10 for a 1/4lb spool and is super tough an handles bangin off rocks well. when i do use braid (mainly king fishing on the cow, cause there are some jumbo piggies in there), i like power pro. power pro seems to hold knots better and casts a bit easier. i use a smaller shimano that holds about 125 of 12lb most of the time an don't have to much problem with fish spoolin me, just gotta go after them. the average king is about 15 pounds or so and most rivers don't give up many over 30. just make sure ur drag is smooth (if your not handy takin your reel apart, take it to a shop to be cleaned an lubed that cost about 20 bucks or so).

[gpc]

It took me a couple years to finally accept braid. But if you follow all the directions (witch I didnt) that come with a spool of Power Pro, it works great. The main things are, you need to put on a mono backing, and use some arbor tape (that comes with the PP). You also apply a lot more tension when spooling with braid, so the line stacks on the spool evanly. The spooling proces isnt difficult, but it is diffrent than mono. And you dont want to use clinch knots with braid. There is a couple that are recomended, I use the palomar. And if you get a rats nest, just remember you cant muscle braid and break it. It might feel like 8# line, but its 30#. Braid will cut your hands pretty bad.

[OKfisherman]

Yeah, I remember when braid first hit the shelves; the spool cost 50 dollars, and you could not cut it with anything less than a pair of scissors. I backed the braid with fly line backing, as it was the only thing I had on hand. Will that suffice, or should I back it with something else?

[OKfisherman]

OK, hit the Nisqually again yesterday, just as the tide was coming in. Fished the "Deadman" (??), for about an hour, and watched three guys take a king apiece out of the same hole I was fishing. Kudos to those guys, but I couldn't STEAL a hookup. Talked with a couple of the guys and lengthened my leader by about 4 feet, and was starting to get regular hits when I had to call it a day. I'll be back as soon as the rain breaks...